How To Change E350 V10 Radiator Water

Topic: Changing coolant in Ford V-10

Posted By: dennislanier on 02/15/xvi 09:16am I take a 2004 Jayco Granite Ridge with the Ford Five-10 engine. I have owned it for most 3 years myself. Information technology only has about 18000 miles on it, but is now 12 years old. In that location were no service records available from the dealer when I bought it, and so I have no idea if the coolant has ever been changed.

I accept a some questions about irresolute the coolant myself. I know the get-go response from some would exist "do a search".. Ok, I did a rudimentary search and did not detect all the data I need.

Get-go of all, is a change of coolant even necessary? Seems to be some difference of opinion on this, merely seems like 12 years is a long time between changes, and I certainly don't see any impairment in irresolute information technology fifty-fifty if it doesn't exercise a lot of good for the engine.

I know about disconnecting the lower hose from the radiator and letting the coolant bleed from the radiator and lower hose. How nigh the engine plugs? How hard are they to get to and is that part necessary for proper drainage? How near the transmission cooler lines?

What I am looking for is answers from someone who has actually done this procedure themselves on their V-ten. Any data, tips etc would be much appreciated.

Posted Past: n7bsn on 02/15/16 09:47am Yep 12 years is too long.
If still mill, your V10 has the "old" greenish AF fluid.

When I inverse mine I just opened the bottom valve on the radiator and let information technology drain.
But and then I refilled with pure water and and ran the engine enough to get the arrangement warm (ie open the thermostat), and then drained it again.

and repeated
and repeated
and repeated, until I could see or smell no trace of AF.

That way I was certain I got all the old AF out.

I measured how much I drained, then I knew that I had only gotten slightly over half the liquid out at whatsoever fourth dimension. So I used that as a bench mark for how much new AF to put in.

I know that the common recommendation for the ol green AF is every 3 years or 36,000 miles.

2008 F350SD V10 with an 2012 Arctic Play a trick on 29-5E
When someone tells you lot to purchase the same rig they own, heed, they might be right. When they tell you lot to purchase a unlike rig then they ain, really pay attention, they probably know something y'all don't.

Posted By: spadoctor on 02/fifteen/16 09:49am If information technology looks proficient and tests good leave it lone there is no need to modify it.

Posted By: path1 on 02/xv/16 09:54am (In your search the auto part houses had a little vid or youtube)
Hither is how I did mine. Couple years ago I asked the same thing. Yes, information technology needs changed. Make sure you lot go the "correct" type anti freeze (forget what type) I heard people say they had issues with "burping" the radiator and I didn't want to mess with hose. So I picked up a cheap manual fluid pump from harbor freight (under $x) and sucked out every bit I could after jacking up rear end. Pumped into empty gallon jugs so I knew how much old came out and replaced with new the same amount. Kept my middle on the plastic canteen and after driving some, added till between lines of normal.

If I remember right... I also changed the t-stat when fluid was out?

There probably ameliorate way but that's what I did. One reason was I can't get rid of anti freeze except a gallon at a time with trash unless I want to take information technology to our household haz place and wait in line for long time. Worked for me.

Posted By: time2roll on 02/15/16 09:56am If information technology looks clean and performs well consider merely draining the radiator and refill with premix 50/50 for a shot of additives to limit corrosion.

If y'all exercise add together any water to rinse or fill... utilise but distilled. At less than $ane/gal it is well worth it.

2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up

Posted By: carringb on 02/15/xvi 10:09am There's a drain valve on the bottom of the radiator. I usually place a hose onto that to aid reduce splashing. If information technology doesn't expect contaminated, a simple drain and fill up should be sufficient.

2000 Ford E450 V10 VAN! 450,000+ miles
2014 ORV really big trailer
2015 Ford Focus ST

Posted By: CloudDriver on 02/fifteen/xvi 10:52am Our Course C is on the 2003 Ford chassis with the V10. The Ford recommended coolant is Motorcraft Premiun Aureate Engine Coolant and the alter frequency is every 5 or 6 years (tin't retrieve which right at present). IIRC the coolant system has a chapters of 32 quarts which equals 8 gallons.

The parts guy at the local Ford dealer told me that they use 2 gallons of coolant plus ii gallons of h2o when they modify the coolant in their shop. Obviously they don't drain all of the coolant out by removing block plugs, etc.

I opened the cap on the expansion tank and the drain valve at the lesser of the radiator and got about 4 gallons out. Added the first gallon of antifreeze and a gallon of water through the expansion tank. I then made a fifty/50 mix of the remaining antifreeze by pouring i/2 the gallon of water into the empty antifreeze container and topping off with the full strength antifreeze. I then added the remaining water to the second antifreeze container. I poured one gallon of fifty/50 mix into the expansion tank, plus virtually of the second gallon. Ran the engine and drove around several times and topped off the expansion tank as needed.

Accept washed this twice and will practise it again before our travels this yr.

2003 Winnebago Minnie 24F - Ford E-450">

Posted By: dennislanier on 02/15/16 11:26am Thanks very much for the data. It seems from these replies that it is not necessary for me to remove the engine plugs, just bleed and refill every bit you folks have done. I volition probably supplant the hoses while I am at it, but this is exactly the information I was looking for. Thank you again.

Posted By: Dr Quick on 02/15/xvi 04:18pm I have the Ford 5.4 which is basically the smaller version of the V-10.
Here is how I changed my antifreeze as per Ford recommendations. Drained the radiator, and only one cake plug was accusable and so took that out too. Other side was behind motor mount. Disconnected elevation radiator hose and took thermostat out. Disconnected one of the heater hoses, and then flushed water both ways at disconnect point. You may have to prop open heater house vacuum actuated valve. Ran h2o both ways until all traces of old antifreeze was gone, with and without one cake drain plug closed. Put T'stat back in and reconnected all the hoses. Then added total forcefulness antifreeze until I had put in 1/ii of engine capacity. Then finish filling with l/fifty solution.
With the age of the vehicle you lot may consider putting on all new hoses too.

Dr Quick

Posted Past: CloudDriver on 02/15/xvi 04:30pm One thing to retrieve regarding auto antifreeze is that it is toxic and is regulated as a hazardous waste. It shouldn't exist just drained onto the footing or poured down the toilet. Our county has a household hazards waste matter recycling facility and I collect the quondam antifreeze and take it there for proper disposal.

Posted By: Golden_HVAC on 02/fifteen/16 07:25pm Never remove the block plugs, they are not designed to come up out or go dorsum in.

I would not remove the coolant hose until the radiator has been drained all the way via the plug on the lesser of the radiator.

If you want to replace the hoses, I would do that at the same time. You don't want them to become to old. Check your drive belt too - might every bit well replace it while it is easy to go to, and in your driveway, not in a National Park, like I had to replace my alternator belt.

Restriction fluid is some other of import fluid to modify every 7 years or then. To do that, open a bleeder at each wheel (with a 3/8" hose on the bleeder to catch the fluid in a jar) and bleed. Someone will have to pump the brakes, then yous open the valve while they button and hold. Then you close the valve, they pump three-four times and push and concord, while y'all open the valve. Afterwards you collect almost v ounces, refill the reservoir with new fluid, and repeat until you get the clear fluid from each restriction cylinder.

Skilful luck,

Fred.

Posted By: WA7NDD on 02/xvi/16 06:07pm When I bought our 1998 V-10 ii years agone with no service records, with 35,000 miles on it, I decided to invest in it. I know all about the V-ten spark plug trouble. I had every hose replace, radiator and engine flushed, brakes flushed, front end suspension hoses replaced, shocks, steering stabilizer, tie rod ends, and caster inverse to +v. Rear end had a minor leak, replaced seal and new oil,and mass air flow sensor rebuilt. I forgot what else I had done, but what a difference. Paid $iii,500 to a trusted privet garage with a long history of good service. Went on a 2500 mile trip with 13 mpg average, no cooling bug, or any other problem. Flushing breaks, shocks, and steering stabilizer, and +5 caster made huge difference in handling.

1998 Four Winds 5000 Rigby, ID

Posted By: Oldme on 02/16/xvi 07:24pm Schedules for Fords

Ford cooling

Posted Past: Harvey51 on 02/18/16 09:42pm Skillful idea! Ours is a 2004 with 100 thousand km. Time to modify the coolant and the chugalug. I won't change the hoses yet unless one feels old and brittle. I have a 1992 van with 265 1000 on information technology with no hose replacements. I did accept a hose clench failure on it one time.

2004 E350 Adventurer (Canadian) 20 footer - Alberta, Canada
No TV + 100W solar = no generator needed

Posted By: dennislanier on 02/19/16 07:33am

Great data here. Thanks very much.

Posted By: Harvey51 on 02/28/16 09:51pm Yep, indeed!
Not fourth dimension to change the coolant - first fourth dimension is 100k miles for E350 V8.

Posted Past: Bluedog on 03/07/sixteen 09:15pm I was under the impression that the newer types of anti-freeze cannot be mixed betwixt brands or colors.

Nevertheless, if the Ford dealer only drains one/2 of the "Light-green" and refills with "Gold" why become through all the procedures described to drain the last drib?

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